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Why Try White Merlot From Bordeaux

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Château Picoron, located within the Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux appellation in southwest France, was established in the 16th century. In 2015 it was purchased by Sydney based Australian couple Glenda and Frank Kalyk, who try to spend six months a year in France. They produce five wines—each 100% Merlot—on 11 acres (4.5 hectares) in Sainte-Colombe, which is minutes away from the wine regions of both Saint-Émilion and Pomerol.

Their signature wine is a white Merlot.

Correct. White Merlot.

Wines from Picoron are now in conversion to organic production. The hilly and tranquil terrain surrounding Château Picoron is underlain by limestone, and dotted by small patches of forest. These nearby trees promote biodiversity amid vines, which helps reduce sensitivity of vegetation to disease. Grasses planted between rows impact the vigor of vines, and also moderates rainfall runoff, hence reducing soil erosion.

I last tasted white Merlot a decade ago with winemaker Guido Brivio in Mendrisio, in southern Switzerland. Brivio’s story highlights suspicions that once surrounded this wine: after he first bottled his Merlot, a restaurant owner from the nearby city of Lugano wrote to him—imploring that he immediately stop his work, lest he ruin the reputation of the entire Ticino wine region. Within a few years, that same restaurateur had converted to a dedicated customer—annually purchasing 60 bottles from Brivio.

White Merlot originates from red grapes. During winemaking, contact of grape skins with juice is minimized—in the same way that rosé wines are made. General Manager Camille Lanyou of Château Picoron highlighted how the quixotic weather of 2021 will impact their production—including an unpredicted tilt toward increasing the volume of this wine.

‘For white Merlot, we harvest early to reduce color and to have freshness and crispness. This year was very challenging, with so much rain during the summer. But that gives good potential to rosé and white wines, so we will decrease the production of classical reds because it was hard for grapes to reach maturity this year.’

The current harvest season includes an oscillation between sunny and rainy days. Bordeaux educated winemaker Joséphine Ong—who has worked with vintages in Australia and California—also described challenges that 2021 is presenting to Château Picoron, as well as to the entire region.

‘It’s an intense vintage, very different than recent years. We had frost at the beginning of the season, then a lot of rain—so mildew was a big problem in the area.’

While the owners are forced to remain in Australia due to Covid-19 restrictions, their son William—who lives in Amsterdam—visits the estate frequently. When he is away—three locally based women manage daily activities at Château Picoron—Camille, Joséphine and Cindy Manne (who manages social media). This sometimes supervisory trio add another unique layer to Picoron—an estate frequently managed by women that produces white Merlot and uses non-traditional labels. The overall impact of this combination to this gorgeous right bank region?

Refreshing.

Tasting notes below include wines from three different vintages.

Château Picoron. No Lemon. White Merlot. 2020. 90-91 points.

This Merlot is vinified as a white wine and spends three months in a combination of different sized French oak barriques and casks—new and aged. Grapefruit aromas, similar to a Sauvignon Blanc, with a taste that is slightly honeyed and includes a beautiful oily mouth feel. The wine includes crispness, tension, minerality and lingering acidity on the finish. Only 3,200 bottles produced. Label names of wines from Picoron are palindromes (a word that remains the same whether spelt backward or forward); this is a slight exception—it refers to lemons or melons, depending on which way it is read.

Château Picoron. Madam I’m Adam. Merlot rosé. 2020. 92 points.

This Merlot rosé includes aromas of tangerine, melon and grapefruit, as well as sweet spices of cinnamon and vanilla—slightly candied and with a mild hint of salt. In the mouth, flavors include strawberry, cinnamon and even a hint of blueberry. The aim—to produce a crisp and elegant wine in the Provence style, light but with body—is quite well achieved.

Château Picoron. Tattarrattat. 2020. 92 points.

This 13.5% alcohol Merlot is produced using carbonic maceration with no added sulfites and includes aromas of chestnuts, strawberries and plum jam. In the mouth it is well structured, with juicy fruit flavors that include raspberries. The finish is full. Pair with beef, or a dessert of chocolate fondant.

Château Picoron. Mon Nom. 2019. 93 points.

This early harvest, cold fermented Merlot ages for six months in oak and includes aromas of licorice, sultanas, brownies and anise. Cherries and chocolate in the mouth, with compelling light acidity that balances well with quiet tannins. Consider pairing with grilled duck breast or a dessert of orange sherbet.

Château Picoron. Né de l’Éden. Castillon Cótes de Bordeaux. 2017. 95 points.

This 14.5% alcohol Merlot in individually numbered bottles includes subdued and semi-complex aromas of fudge, licorice, black pepper, cumin, cranberries, smoke and oak. A layer cake in the mouth; full bodied with flavors of black cherries and with zippy, creamy acidity. Well structured tannins and a gorgeously suave finish. Pair with a T-bone or New York strip steak—or any decently cooked victuals of your choice.

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